Hong Kong
Hong Kong
We docked in Kowloon Harbour right beside the Star Ferry terminal. We had two days here.
David and Carolyn headed out with us at 8:30 am after the ship cleared and we walked to the Metro to explore Kowloon.
We got seniors' Octopus cards, transit cards that click down with each use. Transit is cheap, about 30 cents a ride. Right beside Diamond Point metro stop, almost under the expressways are Nan Lian garden and Chi Lin nunnery. First we explored the lovely gardens with azaleas and lots of other plants in bloom. And in the distance, surrounding it all, you can see tall skyscrapers. Although it is a modern garden, it maintained the idiom of the Chinese garden: stone, a brightly painted pagoda, water (a pond for reflecting the moon, and a waterfall that flowed down the side of a building), and plants including some bonsai.
The Buddhist nunnery is a remarkable building, a modern replacement for an earlier building and all built by hand and without nails. In the garden we had seen a display on the special joints they used. There were people praying and a smiling nun greeting those who prayed, especially children. The ambiance was tranquil amidst the bustle of the city.
From there we went to a small restaurant for lunch - One Dim Sum. We took a number and waited outside for a table and food which has a Michelin red guide mention. We filled in our menu choices while we waited. It was worth waiting for, especially the best sticky rice and baked pork buns we have had. We had 8 small dishes to share and they were delicious. Cost - including mugs of tea was about $12 per couple.
After the meal, we visited the Flower Market with incredible blooms, especially the orchids. We took the metro back a few stops and then the two of us walked to the Hong Kong history museum after a brief foray to Fa Yuen Street (Ladies’ market). Frances bought a small backpack, but without haggling!
The Hong Kong Museum of History is very well done and covered from prehistory up to the handover from Britain. We were thoroughly ashamed of our ancestors who decided to right the trade imbalance by selling the Chinese opium. (Evidently the Chinese didn't want British consumer goods or products but the British merchants wanted Chinese products.)
Then we walked back along the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade via the Avenue of the Stars.
We ate dinner outside in the casual buffet restaurant to see the Hong Kong evening light show. Not particularly exciting though!
On the second morning, we started by taking the Star Ferry across the harbour from Kowloon to Hong Kong. We went looking for egg custard tarts - David had found a blog post about the best. Unfortunately they only start selling them at 11am. We didn't get an alternative treat but headed out to the Peak tram. On our way we walked through small parks and past the Anglican cathedral where a rummage sale poster said it would feature gently used Chanel, Stella McCartney, etc!
There was a queue for the peak tram but since it was early enough so it wasn't too long a wait. The ride up and down is amazing. There are a huge number of high rises on the slopes but we were riding at such a steep angle that a first impression was that the buildings were built on a slope! Of course it was our tram. At the top we walked along a "tree" trail with some interesting trees before heading higher up the slope of the mountain. Carolyn and Frances bailed out after awhile and they sat in a playground while Richard and David headed up a trail for more vistas. They reported that it was not really worth it! They did see the ruins of a governor’s garden.
We met up with another couple from the cruise when we were taking the tram down and they joined us for dim sum lunch at Din Tai Fung. Fancier and perhaps more refined than yesterday's meal. Costs about $30 per couple. Not better though.
Before lunch, we had walked through Hong Kong Park and took photos outside the wedding building.
Transit today included the Star Ferry, two double decker trams, and a Metro ride under the harbour back to Kowloon and the ship. We went up on deck to see the ship leaving the harbour. It was fun to see all the ferry boats zipping across the harbour.
Hong Kong was crowded but not as crowded as we thought it would be. And there is a lot of green space and gardens. The people seem surprisingly outdoorsy and there are hiking trails and gear for sale, scuba on the small reef, wetlands in some outlying area. Yes, it seems to be vertical living mostly but we saw joggers. Kowloon is a bit grittier though and has lower rise buildings, but it too is getting towers!